I Need to Find a Home for My Rabbit!
The House Rabbit Connection cannot take rabbits from individuals. Please do not call our HopLine to surrender your rabbit. If you must find a home for your rabbit please email us with your home address and request a copy of our brochure “How to Find a Home for Your Rabbit.”
Before you get rid of your rabbit, consider this: Many “undesirable” behaviors can be reduced or eliminated. For example, rabbits naturally entertain themselves by chewing and digging. There are ways to direct these behaviors towards safe toys–and not your furniture. Also, most people don’t realize that spaying/neutering their rabbit will reduce other awkward behaviors, such as circling, growling, biting, marking territory etc. People often say they don’t have enough time to spend with their rabbit. While you are at work, your rabbit should have a large cage with plenty of room to move around in, safe toys, and food. When you are at home, although time spent interacting with your rabbit is essential, rabbits are also content to play in their safe area while you are nearby, paying bills, watching tv etc. A healthy rabbit can be litterbox trained and makes a delightful companion. Surrendering one to a shelter will often turn a social bunny into a withdrawn, ill, or aggressive rabbit, which makes it “unadoptable.” Rabbits have strong and vibrant personalities. They thrive on routine and a social environment. You made a commitment to your little pet, and we would like to see that relationship work.
Therefore, please contact us about any problems you are experiencing with your pet. We may be able to help you. Email us or call (413) 525-9222.
DO NOT RELEASE YOUR RABBIT INTO THE WILD. YOUR RABBIT WILL BE TERRIFIED. HE WILL NOT SURVIVE AND WILL DIE A HORRIBLE DEATH — BY EATING SOMETHING POISONOUS, OR STARVING, OR GETTING KILLED. IT IS ILLEGAL TO RELEASE DOMESTICATED ANIMALS TO THE WILD.
Reasons why people get rid of rabbits:
- Unsure of proper care
- Destructive behaviors
- Allergies/Asthma
- Moving
- Don’t Have the Time
- Don’t Have the Money
Here are some tips that may make a huge difference. Please contact us for additional ideas pertaining to your situation.
Chewing/Digging
Rabbits naturally chew and dig. Rabbits must chew to wear down their teeth, which never stop growing. You cannot and should not eliminate this behavior. Often unwanted chewing or digging can be controlled with a few simple steps.
Effective rabbit proofing – a must in every rabbit home
- Coverings for electrical and phone cords
- Barriers and furniture protection
Alternative chewing materials:
- Untreated willow baskets
- Twigs from non-fruit trees
- Cardboard tubes
- Untreated wood
- Alternative digging options (such as a large box filled with shredded paper)
Poor litterbox habits
Most rabbits can be trained with little effort. The following things can contribute to better habits:
- Spay/Neuter – Rabbits that have been altered typically have better litterbox habits than those that have not. Contact us for a list of rabbit-savvy vets.
- Changes in household can result in a temporary loss in litter habits – a new environment or pet may cause a rabbit to display territorial marking.
- Reinforce litterbox training with positive feedback.
- Additional litterboxes may be needed.
- Exercise area (not time) may need to be limited during the reinforcement training.
Aggressive/Cage Protective
We can help with reducing/eliminating aggressive behavior.
Hormonal Behaviors
Spraying, marking territory with urine or droppings, and mounting can be minimized or eliminated with a spay/neuter; please refer to our list of rabbit-savvy vets.
Allergies/Asthma
- Have you consulted an allergist?
- Is the allergy to the hay or the rabbit?
- All hays are not created equal – hays with more dust will aggravate allergies.
- Have someone else handle the hay.
- Keep cages clean and the amount of excess hay in the cage to a minimum.
- Vacuum regularly; run an air purifier.
- Have rabbit-free rooms.
Moving
Finding a new home for yourself and your rabbit is possible – it just may take a little time.
Some landlords may make exceptions to “no pet policies” for quiet, caged animals. You will have to adequately rabbit-proof the area for the times when your rabbit is outside of his/her cage. Remember that rabbits are not rodents and a landlord cannot refuse you on those grounds. Contact us for additional ideas pertaining to your unique situation.
Don’t Have the Time
Change the location of the cage to a less isolated area. In other words, moving cage from children’s room or porch to the living room will allow the rabbit to interact easily and naturally with your family.
Open the cage door when home — a rabbit will find time for you. They are social creatures and will seek you out in the room you are in.
Don’t Have the Money
Finding a new, acceptable home for your rabbit will take some time. For the sake of your animal, please don’t wait until the last minute.
Best Ways to Find a New Home for your Rabbit
Contact friends, family, co-workers, and members of your place of worship.
Hang up flyers with a picture of your rabbit on community bulletin boards, at veterinary hospitals, feed stores, etc.
Offer to provide your cage and supplies free with the rabbit.
Since some individuals want rabbits for food for themselves or their reptiles, be sure to interview anyone contacting you to ensure that they will provide a suitable home. If you do find someone to adopt your rabbit, give them HRC’s phone number and email address so that they can call us with any questions about their new companion animal.
As a last resort, bring your rabbit to a shelter. The shelter may have to humanely euthanize your rabbit for a number of reasons, so be sure to ask about their policy. Although a shelter gives your rabbit a chance to be adopted, you should not wait until the last minute to make this call, as shelters are often full, and you may be placed on a waiting list. Remember, do not release your rabbit into the wild—it is the cruelest fate of all.


